Belfast, Slowly
Although my trip to Belfast was only a few days long, it left a much bigger impression than I expected. I didn't manage to tick everything off my list, but I still came away pleasantly surprised. From the moment we arrived, the city felt well laid out, walkable, with a charm that grows on you. The weather, unsurprisingly, was cold and grey despite it being the end of July. After landing, we boarded the airport bus into the city. As we made our way through Belfast, I caught my first glimpse of the famous Harland & Wolff cranes, Samson and Goliath, towering above the skyline.
When we got off at the bus stop closest to our Airbnb, the first landmark that caught my eye was the Albert Memorial Clock–Belfast’s own leaning tower. Sitting opposite was McHugh's Bar & Restaurant, and I made a mental note to visit before we left. I also spotted what I later found to be the pedestrian underpass leading to Queen’s Square, beneath and adjacent to the clock. From there, it was just a short walk to the Airbnb we called home for the next few days.
Our Airbnb was cosy, centrally located, and had everything we needed for a comfortable stay. Once we'd unpacked, it was time to do what we usually do whenever we visit somewhere new: head straight back outside and explore.
Our first stop was the Big Fish, also known as the Salmon of Knowledge. According to local fable, kissing it brings good luck (and no, before you ask, I didn't kiss it 😂). Its beautiful blue-and-white mosaic tiles are inscribed with newspaper clippings and illustrations that celebrate Belfast's history. From there, we crossed the Lagan Weir footbridge. I couldn’t help noticing one of the Game of Thrones stained-glass windows, which I think is the House Baratheon window, just as I stepped off the bridge.
Feeling hungry, we made our way to St George's Market, only to discover it had already closed for the day. Instead, we continued to Victoria Square. I really liked Victoria Square. It felt like a mix of Oxford Street in London, thanks to its multi-level department store, and Kalverstraat in Amsterdam because of its pedestrian-friendly layout. After browsing a few shops, we settled on grabbing a bite at Five Guys and took the lift to the famous glass dome. The panoramic 360-degree view was easily one of the highlights of the day. I could see Belfast City Hall, the Albert Memorial Clock, the Harland & Wolff cranes in the distance, and even the hills surrounding the city. Seeing everything from above made Belfast feel surprisingly compact.
The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering through the city centre, popping into a few shops before eventually finding ourselves in Waterstones. I couldn't resist browsing the shelves and spotted a couple of books that caught my attention, including And How Does That Make You Feel? by Joshua Fletcher and The List by Yomi Adegoke. Later, we stopped by Black Sheep Coffee for matcha, coffee, and one of their matcha waffles, which I can confidently say were absolutely worth trying. I also loved the large mural of a saxophonist on the wall, which gave the café a cool vibe.
The following morning, we headed to the Cathedral Quarter, one of Belfast's liveliest neighbourhoods known for its pubs, restaurants and street art. It’s home to popular spots like the Duke of York, Bunsen and the Dirty Onion. Walking around, I noticed the Old Bushmills Whiskey building and the colourful Umbrella Street installation.
Lunch was at the Dumpling Library in St Anne's Square. On our way back, we came across two young boys busking with Great Highland bagpipes, drawing quite a crowd.
As the weather turned chilly, we headed back to our Airbnb so I could grab a jacket. A quick stop at Trait Coffee for another coffee and Matcha warmed us up before we caught an Uber to the Botanic Gardens beside Queen's University Belfast.
The gardens offered a peaceful escape from the busy city centre. Although both the Palm House and the Tropical Ravine were closed during our visit, we still enjoyed wandering around the grounds. I found myself lingering in the rose garden, soaking up the brief appearance of the sunshine and simply enjoying the quiet surroundings.
After leaving the gardens, we wandered into Oxfam Books before finding somewhere for dinner. Once we were back, before wrapping up the day and calling it a night, we stopped into McHugh's for a drink and unexpectedly found a live traditional music session in full swing. It was intimate, lively and one of those unplanned moments that ended up becoming one of my favourite memories from the trip.
The next morning began exactly where we'd hoped: with breakfast at St George's Market. This time it was open, and it was well worth returning. The market was filled with artisan food stalls, fresh produce, baked goods, coffee and independent traders selling everything from handmade gifts to clothing and food. We grabbed breakfast before making our way across the Lagan Weir Footbridge, walking the Maritime Mile towards Titanic Quarter.
Standing beside Hamilton Dock was the SS Nomadic (often described as the Titanic's little sister), the last surviving White Star Line vessel and the tender that once carried first- and second-class passengers to RMS Titanic. Seeing it in person was fascinating, especially knowing it is the only remaining ship from the White Star Line.
The highlight of the day, however, was Titanic Belfast. The museum was much larger than I had imagined, and I was impressed by how immersive the experience was. One section that particularly stood out was the shipyard ride, which recreated what life was like for the workers who built the Titanic. The sounds, movement and atmosphere gave a real sense of the scale of the project.
As I continued through the museum, the story became increasingly emotional. Reading the names of the passengers and seeing personal artefacts, from handwritten letters and a first-class luncheon menu to Lord Pirrie’s pocket watch, made the tragedy feel far more personal than simply watching a documentary or film ever could. These weren’t just museum pieces; they were intimate reminders of ordinary lives, routines and relationships that existed before history changed everything. It was a sobering reminder that behind one of the world’s most famous disasters were thousands of individual lives and stories.
We then boarded the SS Nomadic itself. Exploring the various decks, the first-class saloon, the captain's quarters and the bridge offered an interesting contrast to the museum. Seeing the preserved interiors and original artefacts helped bring another chapter of Titanic's story to life. It offered a glimpse into 1912 maritime life.
Our last two days were a mix of the wild and the historic. A full day at Belfast Zoo seeing everything from meerkats and lions to seals and ostriches, although the hilly terrain made it quite the workout! On our final day, we visited the Crumlin Road Gaol. Exploring the Victorian-era prison, particularly the underground tunnel that once connected it to the courthouse, was both eerie and fascinating. Wandering through the holding cells and former offices provided a stark, reflective end to the trip.
As I looked back while heading home, I realised that even though I missed the Palm House, Ulster Museum, the International Wall, or the Peace Wall this time, Belfast had given me plenty of reasons to return.
It’s a city where history and modern life sit side by side comfortably, with welcoming neighbourhoods, peaceful green spaces and plenty left to discover.
Looking back, my favourite moments weren't necessarily the famous landmarks. They were listening to live music at McHugh's, watching the boys busking in the Cathedral Quarter and experiencing Titanic Belfast. I may not have seen everything Belfast has to offer, but I left with plenty of wonderful memories, and a good excuse to return one day.
